I'll tell you about why people send viruses, some of the misconceptions to do with computer viruses, what virus writers might have to gain, and an insight into some of the mistaken beliefs about the causes of computer virus problems. A long page maybe, but worth reading...
Computer viruses have been around for a long while and could be defeated by having operating systems written properly with sensible security. With a proper operating system, (not Microsoft), it's possible to prevent viruses by avoiding security holes. In open-source systems such as Linux, the computer software is available and visible to all, so it's possible to detect and eliminate vulnerabilities, whereas in the secret bugridden world it's anyone's guess where the problems are.
Virus detection can be done by holistic methods, because of the fundamental computer science involved. This is a bit like detecting thieves and shoplifters by watching the behaviour of people and seeing if they steal something. If they steal, then they can be apprehended. In contrast, modern virus detectors don't do that. They do the equivalent of having a book of mug-shots of all the local criminals and just watch to see if any of them are recognised. It doesn't take a lot of doing to work out that the upshot of this is that criminals might start wearing disguises, and that the security will fail to recognise anyone new to the criminal fraternity, and also that the security companies can make money by selling books of the latest gallery of mug-shots.
One myth of computer viruses is that they are mainly spread from one computer to another like an infectious disease such as the common cold. Whilst this is one way viruses can be spread, it's not the main vector of virus infection. I have evidence which proves this, as I have discontinued a large number of e-mail addresses and then monitored them. Most viruses arrive to these long-dead addresses. These are not being harvested by individual browsing computers, as some of the dead addresses have been gone over a year. So, what's happening is that viruses are being spread by the perpetrators deliberately scattering viruses using bulk e-mail sending to huge lists of harvested e-mail addresses by spam. So, whoever is doing this? It's a mistaken belief that viruses are sent by some kind of hacker/vandal who works alone, isolated, and untraceable. Not so. It's an organised racket.
Who sends viruses? Why do they send viruses? What do they hope to gain by sending virues? Speculations include "The Government" (who of course don't like the Internet and would prefer it if we returned to an age of ignorance where we'd be easier to rule over), "Anti-Virus Software Companies", (who, in the style of some medieval ratcatchers, make more money if there are plenty of viruses about), "Terrorists", (who are just a nuisance and like to think they are furthering whatever cause they believe in by being an annoyance).
There is another explanation of the motives of virus senders can be seen in some of the more recent attacks and which may help to explain the seemingly pointless business of virus spreading. Here's how it works: The originators of the virus send it out and infect as many computers as possible. These then become conscript footsoldiers in a vast army in cyberspace. Then, at a carefully chosen moment, when the commander issues the order, all of the conscripts fire their pea-shooters at whatever target has been selected. This might be some company or other, someone the originator doesn't like, any specific target. Although each recruited computer out there can't do much damage to whatever giant corporation has been targeted, the fact that there are millions of them all shooting simultaneously can result in the target being stonkered.
Another idea along the lines of "what do virus writers have to gain?" is seen in the problem of spyware. This is usually just a form of naff advertising where various dishonest companies attempt to hijack your computer so they can bombard you with loads of silly pop-up adverts.
See How to Stop Annoying Pop-Ups and How to defeat SPYWARE, and also, if you find your browser homepage has been hijacked, How to Change your Homepage to whatever YOU want. Note: If your homepage changes back to Munky, Xupiter, or LuckySurf.net or whatever it is, your computer has caught a nasty case of Spyware, in which case it's best treated by this kind of thing: spyware killers. There's also some preventative advice on how to avoid viruses: Antivirus Measures, even without installing any antivirus software
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Videotapes can be mended
If you have a video tape which has snapped, don't despair! It is usually possible to mend video tapes. The method for such repair is detailed here, with instructions carefully explained. The results of this are usually quite good, but not perfect. Plus, the same method with a few small variations works for audio cassettes and other kinds of tapes too. Yet I have seen people mourn and throw out broken videotapes which have been mangled by a videorecorder, as if they had no idea they could be fixed. But now I'll explain how to mend a videotape, so you need not have the same problem.
First, you need to have both broken ends of the tape available outside the cassette. If you already have this, then luck has been on your side to the extent that you don't need to follow the next part of the explanation, so just continue onto the bit about joining the ends together.
With repairing VHS videocassettes, it helps to know that the flap on the front of the tape can be opened manually by touching a small catch on the right of the flap (right as viewed from the back). Videorecorders have a way of pressing the catch to allow the flap to be opened, but you too can do this even without being a videorecorder!
Another thing worth knowing about VHS cassettes is that the ratchet mechanism which allows the tape to be reeled in but stops it being pulled out can be released by inserting something into a small hole in the base of the cassette. There was a time when I had a specially customised little fingernail which I could use for this purpose, simultaneously being able to release the catch and the ratchet at the same time. In absence of such an adaption, a small screwdriver will do the same thing!
If the tape ends are not visible and have ended up spun onto the reels inside the cassette, they can be retrieved by using a set of mini screwdrivers of the type available from the shops that happen to stock all kinds of useful stuff. Open the cassette by undoing all five screws, and then very carefully take the cassette apart. Be careful as bits can sometimes fall out. A newspaper laid out on the table helps to avoid this being a problem.
Even if you lose some of the pieces, all is not lost, as it is possible to transplant the actual tape reels into another cassette housing. This technique is also useful if the original cassette has been crushed, melted, chewed by the dog, or otherwise apparently "irreparably destroyed". Provided the tape is mostly intact, recovery is generally possible.
Now the important bit... JOINING THE ENDS TOGETHER:
When joining the two loose ends of a snapped videotape, or audio tape for that matter, the ends need to be cut cleanly. Trim off crumpled tape with scissors leaving a neatly snipped end to each of the two severed tapes.
(You will only lose a few seconds of footage)
Next, get some clear sticky tape* (see important note at end) and put a short section of it on the table, with the sticky side up. (It's important that the sticky tape ends up on the REVERSE of the video tape, for reasons I'll explain later). The sticky tape should be at right angles to the videotape. Now, place one of the two ends of the videotape halfway onto the sticky tape leaving plenty either side. This makes it easy to stick the second end of the videotape on. This is a precision job as the ends should match up very well. It's important to avoid overlap (as this might catch on the heads), but it's even more important to make sure that no bare sticky area is left exposed. Also, the ends should meet in a straight line rather than having a kink in the middle.
The result should now consist of a joined videotape with the sticky tape right across it with some protruding either side.
If you make a mess of this, don't worry. Just use the scissors to trim off the mistake and start again.
Having stuck both ends of the broken tape onto the sticky tape, you can trim off the excess with sharp scissors. This has to be done quite precisely, but it's better to lose a quarter of a millimetre of videotape from either side in preference to leaving any exposed sticky stuff.
Having joined the two ends nicely together, you can reel them back into the cassette by holding the flap open (with the catch pressed), and by turning the capstan wheels under the cassette. A special videotape-winding tool is available for this, but I've found the thumb will do quite well.
There! A videocassette repaired!
The reason I'm being so fussy about avoiding gum and sticky stuff being exposed on this repair, and also why the sticky tape needs to go on the BACK of the videotape, is because it must not be allowed to contaminate the video heads.
Video heads can be cleaned by repeated use of a tape cleaning tape, but this will not be necessary if the repair is done well.
Also, questions are sometimes raised about the extra wear any repair puts on video heads. This is minimal as the repair will only be encountered every now and then, once for each playing of the tape. Tape machine manufacturers and repairers often overemphasise the wear to the heads, but they are often just trying to cover themselves and would rather you throw away the tape than cause any fuss.
Audio compact cassettes can be repaired in a similar way, but as the tape is much smaller, it's an even more fiddly job to do. Smaller sticky tape and sometimes a cassette editing kit will help.
For videocassettes, the method works for Betamax as well as VHS, and possibly for other types generally, although the ideas about the release catch will be different. And no, of course, this method does not work the same for a DVD.
If you would like a broken videotape mended but you don't fancy performing this precise operation yourself, you may still be able to have it repaired by the technical experts at a television repair shop. If anyone tells you it's impossible to repair a videotape, they are most likely wrong and are simply saying they can't do it or are unwilling to try. The right kind of telly shops (also see proper computer shops) are easily identifiable by their expertise and the amount of technical stuff and junk lying around, as opposed to box shifters who just want to sell you new stuff. Get a price quote before agreeing to the job being done.
Children (of an age where they can be trusted with the sharp scissors!) are sometimes quite adept at repairing a tape, and other videorecorder related abilities such as setting the timer clock. Remember, though, that the repairer of the tape might happen to watch the tape just to test it.
If your videorecorder makes an unfortunate regular habit of munching up videotapes, it's most likely the LACING BELT that needs renewing or rubbing the shine off. This is not difficult.
If you break a rented videotape, mend it, and when you take it back, be honest and tell the folk at the shop you've mended it. They'll probably either forgive you completely or will offer to sell you the tape at a reduced rate. Either way, better than taking back a "ruined" tape and paying full whack for it.
In case you'd like to resolve a problem with a failed hard disc drive instead of a video tape, see hard disc drive recovery companies such as ESS Data Recovery and Ontrack Data Recovery rather than opening it up!
* Sticky Tape: Note that professionals recommend proper splicing tape which is special kind of tape editing tape that will never ooze sticky gum. If you use ordinary 'sellotape' type clear adhesive tapes the repair should be considered to be temporary. How temporary depends on luck and on how well you've done the repair. The problem is that gum from the sticky tape tends to ooze out after a while. This must not get on the heads!
A repair which has been done well, and made with proper splicing tape and with the cut edges closely matched, should last for a long time and even be reusable and re-recordable.
First, you need to have both broken ends of the tape available outside the cassette. If you already have this, then luck has been on your side to the extent that you don't need to follow the next part of the explanation, so just continue onto the bit about joining the ends together.
With repairing VHS videocassettes, it helps to know that the flap on the front of the tape can be opened manually by touching a small catch on the right of the flap (right as viewed from the back). Videorecorders have a way of pressing the catch to allow the flap to be opened, but you too can do this even without being a videorecorder!
Another thing worth knowing about VHS cassettes is that the ratchet mechanism which allows the tape to be reeled in but stops it being pulled out can be released by inserting something into a small hole in the base of the cassette. There was a time when I had a specially customised little fingernail which I could use for this purpose, simultaneously being able to release the catch and the ratchet at the same time. In absence of such an adaption, a small screwdriver will do the same thing!
If the tape ends are not visible and have ended up spun onto the reels inside the cassette, they can be retrieved by using a set of mini screwdrivers of the type available from the shops that happen to stock all kinds of useful stuff. Open the cassette by undoing all five screws, and then very carefully take the cassette apart. Be careful as bits can sometimes fall out. A newspaper laid out on the table helps to avoid this being a problem.
Even if you lose some of the pieces, all is not lost, as it is possible to transplant the actual tape reels into another cassette housing. This technique is also useful if the original cassette has been crushed, melted, chewed by the dog, or otherwise apparently "irreparably destroyed". Provided the tape is mostly intact, recovery is generally possible.
Now the important bit... JOINING THE ENDS TOGETHER:
When joining the two loose ends of a snapped videotape, or audio tape for that matter, the ends need to be cut cleanly. Trim off crumpled tape with scissors leaving a neatly snipped end to each of the two severed tapes.
(You will only lose a few seconds of footage)
Next, get some clear sticky tape* (see important note at end) and put a short section of it on the table, with the sticky side up. (It's important that the sticky tape ends up on the REVERSE of the video tape, for reasons I'll explain later). The sticky tape should be at right angles to the videotape. Now, place one of the two ends of the videotape halfway onto the sticky tape leaving plenty either side. This makes it easy to stick the second end of the videotape on. This is a precision job as the ends should match up very well. It's important to avoid overlap (as this might catch on the heads), but it's even more important to make sure that no bare sticky area is left exposed. Also, the ends should meet in a straight line rather than having a kink in the middle.
The result should now consist of a joined videotape with the sticky tape right across it with some protruding either side.
If you make a mess of this, don't worry. Just use the scissors to trim off the mistake and start again.
Having stuck both ends of the broken tape onto the sticky tape, you can trim off the excess with sharp scissors. This has to be done quite precisely, but it's better to lose a quarter of a millimetre of videotape from either side in preference to leaving any exposed sticky stuff.
Having joined the two ends nicely together, you can reel them back into the cassette by holding the flap open (with the catch pressed), and by turning the capstan wheels under the cassette. A special videotape-winding tool is available for this, but I've found the thumb will do quite well.
There! A videocassette repaired!
The reason I'm being so fussy about avoiding gum and sticky stuff being exposed on this repair, and also why the sticky tape needs to go on the BACK of the videotape, is because it must not be allowed to contaminate the video heads.
Video heads can be cleaned by repeated use of a tape cleaning tape, but this will not be necessary if the repair is done well.
Also, questions are sometimes raised about the extra wear any repair puts on video heads. This is minimal as the repair will only be encountered every now and then, once for each playing of the tape. Tape machine manufacturers and repairers often overemphasise the wear to the heads, but they are often just trying to cover themselves and would rather you throw away the tape than cause any fuss.
Audio compact cassettes can be repaired in a similar way, but as the tape is much smaller, it's an even more fiddly job to do. Smaller sticky tape and sometimes a cassette editing kit will help.
For videocassettes, the method works for Betamax as well as VHS, and possibly for other types generally, although the ideas about the release catch will be different. And no, of course, this method does not work the same for a DVD.
If you would like a broken videotape mended but you don't fancy performing this precise operation yourself, you may still be able to have it repaired by the technical experts at a television repair shop. If anyone tells you it's impossible to repair a videotape, they are most likely wrong and are simply saying they can't do it or are unwilling to try. The right kind of telly shops (also see proper computer shops) are easily identifiable by their expertise and the amount of technical stuff and junk lying around, as opposed to box shifters who just want to sell you new stuff. Get a price quote before agreeing to the job being done.
Children (of an age where they can be trusted with the sharp scissors!) are sometimes quite adept at repairing a tape, and other videorecorder related abilities such as setting the timer clock. Remember, though, that the repairer of the tape might happen to watch the tape just to test it.
If your videorecorder makes an unfortunate regular habit of munching up videotapes, it's most likely the LACING BELT that needs renewing or rubbing the shine off. This is not difficult.
If you break a rented videotape, mend it, and when you take it back, be honest and tell the folk at the shop you've mended it. They'll probably either forgive you completely or will offer to sell you the tape at a reduced rate. Either way, better than taking back a "ruined" tape and paying full whack for it.
In case you'd like to resolve a problem with a failed hard disc drive instead of a video tape, see hard disc drive recovery companies such as ESS Data Recovery and Ontrack Data Recovery rather than opening it up!
* Sticky Tape: Note that professionals recommend proper splicing tape which is special kind of tape editing tape that will never ooze sticky gum. If you use ordinary 'sellotape' type clear adhesive tapes the repair should be considered to be temporary. How temporary depends on luck and on how well you've done the repair. The problem is that gum from the sticky tape tends to ooze out after a while. This must not get on the heads!
A repair which has been done well, and made with proper splicing tape and with the cut edges closely matched, should last for a long time and even be reusable and re-recordable.
You can use a computer CD drive to play CDs WITHOUT A COMPUTER
It might seem a strange thing to suggest, but it's true. A computer CD drive can be used for playing CDs on its own without being part of a computer.
First, let's make one important thing very clear before going on about it: The CD drive MUST have TWO buttons on the front. Some CD drives have only one button, which presumably saves a penny in production. This type won't do - it has to be the TWO BUTTON variety for this trick!
However, the good news is that the CD drive doesn't need to be 128X speed or anything silly like that. The best ones for this are the old 2X speed or even single-speed drives.
So, having got that sorted out, the connections for the CD are: Power in (required), Audio out (recommended), and NO IDE DISC CABLE.
Audio out is the easy bit, as this consists of a piece of cable that would normally connect to the sound card. Lop this off and wire it up to one of the inputs of a hi-fi with the following wiring:
Red: Right
White: Left
Metal outer braid: Ground
Or to put it another way: Left channel = [white, ground] , Right channel = [red, ground]
Next, the power. This requires the cable of the type which would normally go into a hard disc drive, and one easy way to power a CD drive on its own is to use a computer power supply. Another way is to provide your own supply, considering that the power connector wiring to the CD drive is:
Red: 5 volts
Black: 0 volts
Black: 0 volts
Orange/Yellow: 12 volts
This can be achieved by using two 6v motorcycle batteries in series, with a diode to drop the centre-tap to 5.3 volts, which is most likely near enough. You can also use rechargeables, but don't use dry batteries as they are expensive and might not be able to supply the current.
Another helpful design note: Computer CD drives aren't especially vibration-proof and will only work the right way up, so if you are thinking about fitting a computer CD drive in your car dashboard, check it's going to work ok first by driving around a bit playing a CD with the drive on a tray on the passenger seat BEFORE cutting a hole in the console!
First, let's make one important thing very clear before going on about it: The CD drive MUST have TWO buttons on the front. Some CD drives have only one button, which presumably saves a penny in production. This type won't do - it has to be the TWO BUTTON variety for this trick!
However, the good news is that the CD drive doesn't need to be 128X speed or anything silly like that. The best ones for this are the old 2X speed or even single-speed drives.
So, having got that sorted out, the connections for the CD are: Power in (required), Audio out (recommended), and NO IDE DISC CABLE.
Audio out is the easy bit, as this consists of a piece of cable that would normally connect to the sound card. Lop this off and wire it up to one of the inputs of a hi-fi with the following wiring:
Red: Right
White: Left
Metal outer braid: Ground
Or to put it another way: Left channel = [white, ground] , Right channel = [red, ground]
Next, the power. This requires the cable of the type which would normally go into a hard disc drive, and one easy way to power a CD drive on its own is to use a computer power supply. Another way is to provide your own supply, considering that the power connector wiring to the CD drive is:
Red: 5 volts
Black: 0 volts
Black: 0 volts
Orange/Yellow: 12 volts
This can be achieved by using two 6v motorcycle batteries in series, with a diode to drop the centre-tap to 5.3 volts, which is most likely near enough. You can also use rechargeables, but don't use dry batteries as they are expensive and might not be able to supply the current.
Another helpful design note: Computer CD drives aren't especially vibration-proof and will only work the right way up, so if you are thinking about fitting a computer CD drive in your car dashboard, check it's going to work ok first by driving around a bit playing a CD with the drive on a tray on the passenger seat BEFORE cutting a hole in the console!
Using 'my computer' as a toolbar
If you click and drag your 'my computer' icon to the right side of the taskbar, just left of the light blue area, you will create a my computer taskbar. This opens into a start menu-style cascading menu that will allow you to easily access any file in your system.
Different folder types with XP
Windows XP gives you the option to customize a folder specifically for a certain type of data, like music files or photographs. These options will change the default way files are shown in the folder (using thumbnail view automatically for a pictures folder for example) and will also change the columns used to display information, adding an 'artist' and 'album name' column into a music folder to give one example. These customizations can make it easier to organize and keep track of your files. To customize a folder:
Right click on the folder and select 'properties' then choose the 'customize' tab.
Using the dropdown box at the top, you can select the various folder types available. Experiment until you find one to your liking. If you create a picture folder, you can also choose a picture which will appear on the icon for the folder itself, acting as a preview of the contents. You can also change the icon for your folder from this window.
Right click on the folder and select 'properties' then choose the 'customize' tab.
Using the dropdown box at the top, you can select the various folder types available. Experiment until you find one to your liking. If you create a picture folder, you can also choose a picture which will appear on the icon for the folder itself, acting as a preview of the contents. You can also change the icon for your folder from this window.
Run command prompt utilities successfully from shortcuts
If you have ever tried to create a shortcut to 'IPCONFIG' or any of the other myriads of useful command prompt utilities included with Windows XP, you have probably noticed that it does not actually work Or rather, it does, but the command prompt window with your data opens and closes in a flash.
Here's a tip that will allow you to create working shortcuts on your desktop for any command. We will use the IPCONFIG utility as an example:
Right click an empty area of the desktop and select 'new.' Choose 'new shortcut' to open the shortcut wizard. In the 'type the location of the item' box, enter 'cmd /k' followed by the program you wish to run. In the case of IPCONFIG, you would enter 'cmd /k ipconfig'.
Name your shortcut something appropriate and give it an icon from the '%SystemRoot%\system32\SHELL32.dll' location. Now you have a fully working, very convenient desktop shortcut.
Here's a tip that will allow you to create working shortcuts on your desktop for any command. We will use the IPCONFIG utility as an example:
Right click an empty area of the desktop and select 'new.' Choose 'new shortcut' to open the shortcut wizard. In the 'type the location of the item' box, enter 'cmd /k' followed by the program you wish to run. In the case of IPCONFIG, you would enter 'cmd /k ipconfig'.
Name your shortcut something appropriate and give it an icon from the '%SystemRoot%\system32\SHELL32.dll' location. Now you have a fully working, very convenient desktop shortcut.
Turn autocomplete off in IE
By default, Windows XP and Internet Explorer 6 will examine what you are typing in the address bar and pop up a list of similar entries you entered recently. It also stores entries you have made on web documents and forms, including usernames and passwords. While this can help speed up your web surfing experience, it can also potentially compromise your privacy if multiple people are using the same user account on your system. Fortunately, autocomplete can be easily disabled through the IE options menu.
To do this: From Internet Explorer, go to the Tools menu, then select 'options.' Choose the 'content' tab, then click the 'autocomplete' button.
Disable the various options as you see fit. You can also clear autocomplete's memory cache for web forms and passwords from this window.
To do this: From Internet Explorer, go to the Tools menu, then select 'options.' Choose the 'content' tab, then click the 'autocomplete' button.
Disable the various options as you see fit. You can also clear autocomplete's memory cache for web forms and passwords from this window.
'Rolling back' a faulty device driver
Windows XP has the ability to store previous versions of the device driver for certain hardware devices like video cards and sound cards. This enables you to 'roll back' and replace a driver that is having problems with a proven older version. Obviously, this only works if you have previously updated that device with a new driver.
To 'roll back' a driver: Right click 'my computer' and select properties, then the 'hardware tab' then the 'device manager' button. Locate and highlight the hardware device you wish to roll back the drivers on. Press the 'properties' button.
Select the 'driver' tab and click the 'roll back driver' button. If you have a stored older driver for the device, you will be asked if you wish to roll it back.
To 'roll back' a driver: Right click 'my computer' and select properties, then the 'hardware tab' then the 'device manager' button. Locate and highlight the hardware device you wish to roll back the drivers on. Press the 'properties' button.
Select the 'driver' tab and click the 'roll back driver' button. If you have a stored older driver for the device, you will be asked if you wish to roll it back.
Using advanced file security settings in Windows XP Home
Windows XP is based on the same platform as Windows 2000, and shares that operating system's robust file security options, at least when using the NTFS file system. Unfortunately this security system, which enables an administrator to decide exactly which files and programs any given user will have access to, is not actually implemented by default in Windows XP. This is a concession Microsoft made to avoid confusing basic users of XP Pro, and to cripple XP Home.
The NTFS file security options can be enabled easily enough in XP Pro, but are apparently non-existent in the Home version. Fact is, the tools are there, you just need to look a little bit harder.
To enable NTFS file security in Windows XP Home: First you need to assure that at least your main hard drive is formatted with the NTFS file system. Restart your system. Enter safemode, just after the memory and BIOS check screen, but before the Windows splash screen comes up, press F8 a few times.
When the Windows boot menu appears, select 'safe mode' from the list of options.
Once Windows has loaded in safe mode, right click the folders and files you would like to change access to. You will notice that the 'security' tab now exists, and thus you are allowed to assign or deny access to individual users for each file, folder and program. Once you are done, restart Windows normally, and your changes will be enforced.
The NTFS file security options can be enabled easily enough in XP Pro, but are apparently non-existent in the Home version. Fact is, the tools are there, you just need to look a little bit harder.
To enable NTFS file security in Windows XP Home: First you need to assure that at least your main hard drive is formatted with the NTFS file system. Restart your system. Enter safemode, just after the memory and BIOS check screen, but before the Windows splash screen comes up, press F8 a few times.
When the Windows boot menu appears, select 'safe mode' from the list of options.
Once Windows has loaded in safe mode, right click the folders and files you would like to change access to. You will notice that the 'security' tab now exists, and thus you are allowed to assign or deny access to individual users for each file, folder and program. Once you are done, restart Windows normally, and your changes will be enforced.
Bypass the recycle bin when deleting a file
If you do not wish a file or folder you are deleting (or a group of files or folders) to end up in the recycle bin, for security or privacy reasons, there is a simple keyboard shortcut to avoid it.
To bypass the recycle bin when deleting a file, press and hold the SHIFT key as you press delete or select the delete command from the menu. You will see a request for confirmation, and once you say 'yes' the files will be permanently deleted, and absolutely non-restorable from WindowsXP.
To bypass the recycle bin when deleting a file, press and hold the SHIFT key as you press delete or select the delete command from the menu. You will see a request for confirmation, and once you say 'yes' the files will be permanently deleted, and absolutely non-restorable from WindowsXP.
Open explorer window from current command prompt directory
There is a built in command prompt ('start\run' then type 'cmd') command that will open a Windows Explorer window to your exact current directory location in the DOS-oriented command prompt. Simply type 'Start .' from the prompt to open up explorer in that location. And yes, that is 'start(space).'
Backing up or transferring your email manually with outlook
If you would like to ensure that you always have a backup of your Outlook Express mailboxes available, there is an easy way to do it manually. Note that you must have enabled viewing of hidden folders (in Windows Exporer/tools/Folder Options/View Tab/ enable "show hidden files and folders") in order to successfully view your mailboxes.
Navigate to c:\documents and settings\(your username)\ Local Settings\Application Data\Identities\(some very long and complicated string of numbers and letters)\Microsoft\Outlook Express
You will see a .DBX file for each of your mailboxes. Transferring these to another hard drive or burning them onto a CD at regular intervals will ensure that you can always restore your email records should you be forced to reinstall Windows.
To restore your mailboxes in the event of reinstalling Windows, simply copy them back into the same folder once the install is complete, overwriting the existing files. You will now have access to all your email records.
Navigate to c:\documents and settings\(your username)\ Local Settings\Application Data\Identities\(some very long and complicated string of numbers and letters)\Microsoft\Outlook Express
You will see a .DBX file for each of your mailboxes. Transferring these to another hard drive or burning them onto a CD at regular intervals will ensure that you can always restore your email records should you be forced to reinstall Windows.
To restore your mailboxes in the event of reinstalling Windows, simply copy them back into the same folder once the install is complete, overwriting the existing files. You will now have access to all your email records.
Use remote desktop to connect to your PC from anywhere
Windows XP Professional includes Microsoft's remote desktop software, which can be used to access your computer from anywhere you have Internet access. Not only can you access your system, you can actually see and manipulate the desktop environment just as if you were seated in front of the system.
Let's look at how to do this: In order to use Remote Desktop to connect to your home computer remotely, it must first be enabled. Right click on 'my computer' then select the 'remote' tab, and check the box entitled 'allow computers to connect remotely to this computer.'
Note: please ensure that all of your user accounts are using proper passwords before you enable this option, otherwise anyone with internet access and a Windows system can theoretically access and control your computer.
Using the 'select remote users' button, you can select user accounts that have access to the computer remotely. All members of the administrators group (that is, the built in 'administrator' account and any users who were added during the install process) are allowed remote access automatically.
Now you can install Remote Desktop Web Connection if you wish. This allows client computers to access the remote desktop through Internet explorer, eliminating the need to download and install the (freely available from Microsoft) 'Remote desktop client' program.
Insert the Windows XP Professional CD and select 'install additional windows components. Highlight 'internet information services (IIS)' and click 'details.' Highlight 'world wide web services' and click 'details.' Now put a check beside 'Remote desktop web connection,' hit 'ok' twice and then 'next' to install.
Now to connect to the remote desktop from any client computer with Internet Explorer 4 or better installed, simply type 'http://(IP address of your home computer)/tsweb' to bring up the web connect dialog screen.
Let's look at how to do this: In order to use Remote Desktop to connect to your home computer remotely, it must first be enabled. Right click on 'my computer' then select the 'remote' tab, and check the box entitled 'allow computers to connect remotely to this computer.'
Note: please ensure that all of your user accounts are using proper passwords before you enable this option, otherwise anyone with internet access and a Windows system can theoretically access and control your computer.
Using the 'select remote users' button, you can select user accounts that have access to the computer remotely. All members of the administrators group (that is, the built in 'administrator' account and any users who were added during the install process) are allowed remote access automatically.
Now you can install Remote Desktop Web Connection if you wish. This allows client computers to access the remote desktop through Internet explorer, eliminating the need to download and install the (freely available from Microsoft) 'Remote desktop client' program.
Insert the Windows XP Professional CD and select 'install additional windows components. Highlight 'internet information services (IIS)' and click 'details.' Highlight 'world wide web services' and click 'details.' Now put a check beside 'Remote desktop web connection,' hit 'ok' twice and then 'next' to install.
Now to connect to the remote desktop from any client computer with Internet Explorer 4 or better installed, simply type 'http://(IP address of your home computer)/tsweb' to bring up the web connect dialog screen.
Quick back and forward commands in Internet explorer
Here's a tip that can speed up your web surfing. When viewing a page in Internet Explorer, hold down SHIFT and use the mouse scroll wheel to quickly go forward or back through the pages you have viewed.
Mouse Sonar
Here's a good little tip for users who have trouble locating their mouse pointer on the screen. Windows XP has a nifty little 'mouse sonar' option available, which will cause your mouse pointer to pop-up a little concentric ring around itself to show you where it is.
Go to 'start\control panel\mouse' choose the 'pointer options' tab and check the 'show location of pointer when I press the control key' box.
Go to 'start\control panel\mouse' choose the 'pointer options' tab and check the 'show location of pointer when I press the control key' box.
Smooth out your mouse movement
Assuming you are using a PS/2 mouse, this tip can help give you smoother and more precise mouse control. Good for gaming and for your nerves in general. Studies have shown that smooth mousing reduces fatigue and stress and generally promotes a healthy cheerful glow (your experience may vary).
On to the tip: Right click on 'my computer' and select properties. Choose the 'hardware' tab, then the 'device manager' button. From the device manager window, find your PS/2 mouse and select 'properties.' In the 'advanced settings' tab, set the 'sample rate' to 200.
On to the tip: Right click on 'my computer' and select properties. Choose the 'hardware' tab, then the 'device manager' button. From the device manager window, find your PS/2 mouse and select 'properties.' In the 'advanced settings' tab, set the 'sample rate' to 200.
Disable the Disk performance counter(s)
Windows XP contains a built in performance monitor that is constantly examining various areas of your system. This information can be called up using the performance monitor application found in control panel\administrative tools. Of course, most of us have little interest in this sort of performance statistics monitoring, that being more the territory of systems administrators than individual users.
The thing is, XP is still monitoring away, and some of its observation tools can use a considerable amount of resources. The disk monitoring is an example of this, and it's a good idea to turn the disk monitors off if you are not planning to use the performance monitor application.
To do this: Go to the command prompt ('start\run' then type 'cmd') and type 'diskperf -N'
The thing is, XP is still monitoring away, and some of its observation tools can use a considerable amount of resources. The disk monitoring is an example of this, and it's a good idea to turn the disk monitors off if you are not planning to use the performance monitor application.
To do this: Go to the command prompt ('start\run' then type 'cmd') and type 'diskperf -N'
Defrag your hard drive
Defragmentation of a hard drive is the act of re-ordering the data on the drive so that each file can be read continuously from the disk. By default, Windows XP will attempt to store any files it needs to write to the hard drive in consecutive clusters (a cluster is the smallest unit of storage space available on a hard drive) on the drive, so that the file can then be read continuously.
A hard drive which has been frequently used over a long period of time will have developed many fragmented files, files which are scattered over different clusters on the surface of the disk. This can occur because of many factors, for example uninstall programs that leave files behind, system crashes while in the act of writing to the hard drive, regular deletion of files, etc.
A file becomes fragmented when the portion of consecutive clusters on the disk that Windows begins to write into is not large enough to hold the whole file. The remainder of the file then needs to be written to a different physical area of the disk. This does not have any effect on the operating system's ability to access the files themselves, but it does slow down disk access times (and by extension, any application that depends on disk access) due to the extra time needed to reposition the read heads of the hard drive to access the rest of the fragmented file.
Windows XP includes a disk defragmentation utility which you can use to re-arrange the files on the drive and eliminate fragmentation. This can have a significant affect on the speed of your computer. To access this utility, go to 'start\programs\accessories\system tools\disk defragmenter.'
To begin with, you need to analyze your hard disk(s) to see if defragmentation is needed. Select a drive and hit the 'analyze' button. This could take a little while depending on the amount of data on the drive. Whille the system is analyzing, it is best to leave your computer alone or the process may need to restart.
Once the analysis is finished, you will have a graphical representation of your disk's level of fragmentation. See the pic below for an example of a highly fragmented drive.
Windows will also inform you if it recommends defragmenting the drive. You must have 15% of the drive free in order to fully defragment it. Anything less will result in only a partial re-ordering of the files. You may need to delete a few things to obtain this free space.
To defragment the drive, select it and hit the 'defragment' button. Note that depending on the size of the drive and the level of fragmentation, this can take a long time. It's a good thing to leave overnight, since you should not run anything else while doing the defrag either.
A hard drive which has been frequently used over a long period of time will have developed many fragmented files, files which are scattered over different clusters on the surface of the disk. This can occur because of many factors, for example uninstall programs that leave files behind, system crashes while in the act of writing to the hard drive, regular deletion of files, etc.
A file becomes fragmented when the portion of consecutive clusters on the disk that Windows begins to write into is not large enough to hold the whole file. The remainder of the file then needs to be written to a different physical area of the disk. This does not have any effect on the operating system's ability to access the files themselves, but it does slow down disk access times (and by extension, any application that depends on disk access) due to the extra time needed to reposition the read heads of the hard drive to access the rest of the fragmented file.
Windows XP includes a disk defragmentation utility which you can use to re-arrange the files on the drive and eliminate fragmentation. This can have a significant affect on the speed of your computer. To access this utility, go to 'start\programs\accessories\system tools\disk defragmenter.'
To begin with, you need to analyze your hard disk(s) to see if defragmentation is needed. Select a drive and hit the 'analyze' button. This could take a little while depending on the amount of data on the drive. Whille the system is analyzing, it is best to leave your computer alone or the process may need to restart.
Once the analysis is finished, you will have a graphical representation of your disk's level of fragmentation. See the pic below for an example of a highly fragmented drive.
Windows will also inform you if it recommends defragmenting the drive. You must have 15% of the drive free in order to fully defragment it. Anything less will result in only a partial re-ordering of the files. You may need to delete a few things to obtain this free space.
To defragment the drive, select it and hit the 'defragment' button. Note that depending on the size of the drive and the level of fragmentation, this can take a long time. It's a good thing to leave overnight, since you should not run anything else while doing the defrag either.
Cleaning up unwanted startup programs
Many freeware and commercial software programs have a habit of setting themselves up to run automatically upon Windows startup. This can contribute to the gradual decline in startup speed that most Windows XP systems (and windows PCs in general) experience. Also, having programs that you only use selectively, or not at all, load automatically is a waste of system resources that could be better used for other things.
To top it off, many internet nasties such as spyware programs, viruses and Trojan horses will install themselves into one of the automatic start locations on your system in order to make sure that they are run on startup. So the point is, take a look at what is currently running every time you load your PC, and disable what you don't need or can't identify.
To do this: The first place you should go is 'start\programs\startup' which is a directory Windows XP uses to launch application shortcuts on boot-up.
If you remove the shortcuts from this directory, the applications will not load on startup. This directory can also be a repository for various badness such as spyware and virus software, so if there are files here which are not shortcuts and you don't recognize them, you may wish to consider removing them anyways, as Windows will not place critical files in this directory.
The next location for removing unnecessary startup files is the handy MSCONFIG utility that has been resurrected from the graveyard of Windows 9x especially for XP.
Go to 'start\run' and type 'msconfig' to access the utility.
The 'startup' tab in MSCONFIG provides access to several other applications that are started at boot up and are running in the background. By examining their Filenames and directories, you should be able to get a feeling for what is necessary and what is not. Be aware than several viruses and worms have a habit of disguising themselves with authoritative sounding Windows system file names.
The other method for removing these programs is through the programs themselves, as many applications, for example MSN messenger, contain the option to remove the software from startup.
To top it off, many internet nasties such as spyware programs, viruses and Trojan horses will install themselves into one of the automatic start locations on your system in order to make sure that they are run on startup. So the point is, take a look at what is currently running every time you load your PC, and disable what you don't need or can't identify.
To do this: The first place you should go is 'start\programs\startup' which is a directory Windows XP uses to launch application shortcuts on boot-up.
If you remove the shortcuts from this directory, the applications will not load on startup. This directory can also be a repository for various badness such as spyware and virus software, so if there are files here which are not shortcuts and you don't recognize them, you may wish to consider removing them anyways, as Windows will not place critical files in this directory.
The next location for removing unnecessary startup files is the handy MSCONFIG utility that has been resurrected from the graveyard of Windows 9x especially for XP.
Go to 'start\run' and type 'msconfig' to access the utility.
The 'startup' tab in MSCONFIG provides access to several other applications that are started at boot up and are running in the background. By examining their Filenames and directories, you should be able to get a feeling for what is necessary and what is not. Be aware than several viruses and worms have a habit of disguising themselves with authoritative sounding Windows system file names.
The other method for removing these programs is through the programs themselves, as many applications, for example MSN messenger, contain the option to remove the software from startup.
Set priority for individual programs
If you regularly multi-task while you are working at your computer, but some of the applications you use require more horsepower than others to work effectively (for example using Adobe Photoshop along with Word or other less demanding programs), you may want to consider setting a custom priority for the high-demand applications.
Priority is how the operating system determines how to share the processor time among applications. Most applications default to the 'normal' priority, so by setting your high demand application higher, you can increase its performance when multitasking.
To do this: Load the program you wish to change the priority for and press CTRL+ALT+DEL to bring up the Task Manager. Select the applications tab and highlight your program. Right click the program and select 'go to process.' Now right click on the highlighted process and choose 'set priority.'
The higher you set the priority above normal, the more CPU time the program will steal from other applications when you are multitasking.
Priority is how the operating system determines how to share the processor time among applications. Most applications default to the 'normal' priority, so by setting your high demand application higher, you can increase its performance when multitasking.
To do this: Load the program you wish to change the priority for and press CTRL+ALT+DEL to bring up the Task Manager. Select the applications tab and highlight your program. Right click the program and select 'go to process.' Now right click on the highlighted process and choose 'set priority.'
The higher you set the priority above normal, the more CPU time the program will steal from other applications when you are multitasking.
Clean out the prefetch folder
Windows XP uses a system called 'prefetch' to organize and preload some of the data necessary for commonly used applications and files. A folder called prefetch is used to store the information the operating system needs to carry out this operation. After several months of use, the prefetch folder may become quite overloaded with older references to software and files that may no longer be in use.
It's a good idea to manually empty the older files out of the prefetch folder every few months or so. To do this: Navigate to 'c:\windows\prefetch' and delete all .PF files that are older than a week or two.
It's a good idea to manually empty the older files out of the prefetch folder every few months or so. To do this: Navigate to 'c:\windows\prefetch' and delete all .PF files that are older than a week or two.
Altering page files
The page files are one or more areas of your hard disks that Windows XP reserves as virtual memory. To put it simply, these reserved areas are used to contain any data that may spill over from your main memory.
Virtual memory is accessed by Windows just like physical memory, but is many times slower, due to the much slower speed of hard drive data transfer as compared to RAM. Windows XP actually uses the Page files continuously, regardless of the amount of free memory on your system, so optimizing these files can have a positive effect on the performance of your computer.
To optimize the page file(s), there are a few options you can consider.
Page File Placement:
Since Page files require intermittent disk access to write and retrieve information, putting them on the same drive as the operating system can compromise the performance of both. Of course, since most systems contain only a single hard drive, this is not usually something that can be changed. If your system contains more than one hard disk, consider placing a page file on the the non-OS disk and removing the one on the OS-disk containing the Windows files.
To do this: Right click on 'my computer' and select 'properties' then the 'advanced' tab. In the 'performance' section, click 'settings' then select the 'advanced' tab. In the 'virtual memory' section, click 'change.' From here you can choose individual drives and customize the size of the paging files you wish to create.
Page File Size:
By default, page files are created with a starting size and a maximum size. These values allow Windows to resize the paging file as system demand grows. It is more efficient to set an identical starting and maximum value so that no resources are wasted resizing the file.
To do this, choose 'custom size' for each page file and set the initial and maximum sizes to the same number.
As for what size to set them at, the best bet is to leave them at, or slightly below the default 'maximum' setting the system assigned, with a ceiling of 1GB. This is the amount of space that is reserved for the file, regardless of its current size. If you are creating multiple page files, split the amount between them.
Virtual memory is accessed by Windows just like physical memory, but is many times slower, due to the much slower speed of hard drive data transfer as compared to RAM. Windows XP actually uses the Page files continuously, regardless of the amount of free memory on your system, so optimizing these files can have a positive effect on the performance of your computer.
To optimize the page file(s), there are a few options you can consider.
Page File Placement:
Since Page files require intermittent disk access to write and retrieve information, putting them on the same drive as the operating system can compromise the performance of both. Of course, since most systems contain only a single hard drive, this is not usually something that can be changed. If your system contains more than one hard disk, consider placing a page file on the the non-OS disk and removing the one on the OS-disk containing the Windows files.
To do this: Right click on 'my computer' and select 'properties' then the 'advanced' tab. In the 'performance' section, click 'settings' then select the 'advanced' tab. In the 'virtual memory' section, click 'change.' From here you can choose individual drives and customize the size of the paging files you wish to create.
Page File Size:
By default, page files are created with a starting size and a maximum size. These values allow Windows to resize the paging file as system demand grows. It is more efficient to set an identical starting and maximum value so that no resources are wasted resizing the file.
To do this, choose 'custom size' for each page file and set the initial and maximum sizes to the same number.
As for what size to set them at, the best bet is to leave them at, or slightly below the default 'maximum' setting the system assigned, with a ceiling of 1GB. This is the amount of space that is reserved for the file, regardless of its current size. If you are creating multiple page files, split the amount between them.
Turn off or reduce system restore to save hard drive space
Windows XP includes a system restore utility which is capable of rolling your computer back to a pre-defined point in time, removing all changes made to the system since that point. This can be an extremely useful feature for rescuing your PC from viruses or faulty software problems, but it also eats up a large amount of hard drive space.
By default, system restore reserves a whopping 12% of each logical drive for itself. You can considerably reduce the amount of space system restore uses by cutting back on the number of restore points the utility sets for itself, or you can turn the feature off altogether.
To adjust system restore settings: Right click on 'my computer' and select 'properties.' Choose the 'system restore' tab.
To disable system restore, simply check the 'turn off system restore on all drives' box. Otherwise, highlight a drive and click 'settings.'
Using the slider, you can set how much space on this drive system restore will use for its restore points. Decreasing this number will limit some of your flexibility in restoring your system should it be necessary, but reducing the amount down to about 5% or less should still be safe enough for anyone with a 80GB hard drive. Click ok when you decide on the exact amount, or choose 5% if you are unsure.
By default, system restore reserves a whopping 12% of each logical drive for itself. You can considerably reduce the amount of space system restore uses by cutting back on the number of restore points the utility sets for itself, or you can turn the feature off altogether.
To adjust system restore settings: Right click on 'my computer' and select 'properties.' Choose the 'system restore' tab.
To disable system restore, simply check the 'turn off system restore on all drives' box. Otherwise, highlight a drive and click 'settings.'
Using the slider, you can set how much space on this drive system restore will use for its restore points. Decreasing this number will limit some of your flexibility in restoring your system should it be necessary, but reducing the amount down to about 5% or less should still be safe enough for anyone with a 80GB hard drive. Click ok when you decide on the exact amount, or choose 5% if you are unsure.
Resize screen fonts on the fly in Internet Explorer
Here's a simple useful tip that you can use in Internet Explorer. While viewing a web page, hold down CTRL and use the scroll button on your mouse to increase or decrease the size of the fonts on the page. Some websites really like using the small size 1 fonts, and if you're eyes have a hard time reading such small text, this little trick can make previously headache ridden websites much easier to read through.
Repair ur system urself...
u can repair ur windows XP OS without loosing any setting or data, if u have any missing OS file or any errors, repairing will fix it.
Reboot the computer with first boot device as CD-Rom
Place the Win XP cd in CD-Rom
At the prompt "Press any key to boot from CD" press any key
Setup starts-Here u also see a Repair option but dont use it-Press Enter to continue setup-Press F8 to accept License Agreement
Now setup will search for previously installed Operating systems, a list will be displayed
Note: if u have windows 98 it wont be displayed in the list
Select the Operating system which ur repairing, like "C:\Microsoft Windows XP Professional"
Press 'R' to repair
Setup startup copying files and Restarts
Note: if the file copying process is not done and the system restarts u have to again follow the same as above by booting from CD-Rom, after file copying is done system restarts
Now u have to boot from HDD not from CD, At the prompt "Press any key to boot from CD" dont press any key, setup will continue
U need ur CD key
Warning: If u have downloaded Service Pack 2 and installed it then u have to again download and install it after repair
If u have ur Service Pack 2 inbuit in the XP CD then no need to worry, it will get installed along with Os
Reboot the computer with first boot device as CD-Rom
Place the Win XP cd in CD-Rom
At the prompt "Press any key to boot from CD" press any key
Setup starts-Here u also see a Repair option but dont use it-Press Enter to continue setup-Press F8 to accept License Agreement
Now setup will search for previously installed Operating systems, a list will be displayed
Note: if u have windows 98 it wont be displayed in the list
Select the Operating system which ur repairing, like "C:\Microsoft Windows XP Professional"
Press 'R' to repair
Setup startup copying files and Restarts
Note: if the file copying process is not done and the system restarts u have to again follow the same as above by booting from CD-Rom, after file copying is done system restarts
Now u have to boot from HDD not from CD, At the prompt "Press any key to boot from CD" dont press any key, setup will continue
U need ur CD key
Warning: If u have downloaded Service Pack 2 and installed it then u have to again download and install it after repair
If u have ur Service Pack 2 inbuit in the XP CD then no need to worry, it will get installed along with Os
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